26. A Book About Me!

Here is the book that my students wrote and illustrated for me. They presented it to me on my last day. Each student wrote a page. The story is darling and the pictures are real treasures!!

 

25. Back at home

On Saturday, May 21st, after one last visit to Made @ Home (read about it here) we loaded up the car and headed to the airport. Wednesday, Thursday and Friday were difficult as we said good-bye to everyone. Well the good part was that many of the good-byes involved yummy food - but still.....  On Friday I received a big surprise from my class - they presented me with a homemade book. They had written and illustrated a story about me and my visit to their school and each of them wrote me a darling note. It's definitely a keeper!!! They did an amazing job of keeping it a secret - not even a hint was leaked. [And since I'm with them everyday they did a great job (along with Lore) of getting it written. I wasn't feeling well one day and came to school a few hours late - that was the window of opportunity they needed.] And then there were lots and lots of hugs - some of the kids went back in line several times. I was deeply touched. What great kids!!! I took them out for ice cream cones on the last day. There's a KFC across the street from the school that sells soft-serve. You should have seen the face of the staff when I said we wanted 25 ice cream cones..... but after their initial shock - they did a great job serving us.

Traveling home went quite smoothly once we ironed out a small glitch. When we checked in we discovered that Mark and Rachel were on 1 flight and I was on a different flight for the Jo'burg to London leg. Nobody detected it ahead of time. The airline has 2 identical flights leaving 15 minutes apart. Our check-in person was very helpful but we had to go to ticket sales to get it switched. After checking on his computer he informed us that for a mere $1400 Canadian - he could switch my ticket. "See ya in London, Mark...." But he did say to check again at the Jo'burg airport. Well - we had more success there - but first they wanted to charge me about $200 Cdn. The woman who was helping me thought that was crazy. She disappeared for about 20 or more minutes with our boarding passes and returned with new ones and the 3 of us on the same plane - and even sitting together!! When I thanked her and told her she can go home that night knowing that she made a customer very happy - I finally got a smile from her!!

Arriving back in Toronto and then home was exciting and weird at the same time. It was so nice that my dad met us at the airport. When we went to the grocery store and I was totally overwhelmed. While we did have a decent grocery store we visited (quite regularly) in Eshowe - Pik and Pay - the selection pales in comparison to good ol' Zehr's.Another thing that surprised me on the first day was when Mark said it was after 7pm. It was still so bright outside! I've been used to sunsets around 5. People have asked me if I'm jetlagged. No - I made a quick recovery - but I do think I'm "culture-lagged".

 In between missing everyone back in Eshowe - and looking at the clock and thinking what they are doing at that time -- I've been trying to be conscious of all the blessings that surround me here.We picked a wonderful week to return though as spring has reached her show-off stage! The lilacs scent the air and their mauve clumps of petals weigh the branches down. The leaves are basically all out - but still have that new light green glow to them. There are tulips still blooming in many gardens. The trees are covered with lovely pink or white blossoms. People have re-emerged and are out doing yard work and chatting to neighbours and passer-bys. 

Redbud tree blossoms (in my backyard)

Serviceberry or Saskatoon berry blossom (in my backyard)

Now my task it to come up with a 30 second summary of my more than 3 months in S. Africa so I can be ready to answer the question, "How was your trip?" I'm sure the expectation is something more than "great!".

My laptop is full of pictures, my head is full of memories and my heart is full of love from the students and all the wonderful people I've been with.

Thank you everyone!! You have been such a blessing to me!!

I still have lots to say so I am going to try and keep this going for a while longer  - just won't be chronological anymore!!

Thanks for following my adventures! As of right now - I'm just a few hits shy of 2000!(As of Sunday, May 29th I've passed 2000!)  And if you want to reach me, I'm home! (and my same email is still working too.)

24. St. Lucia

After our lovely overnight at Makakatana (see previous post) we went to the town of St. Lucia. It is the main centre of the St. Lucia World Heritage Site. The region contains the highest vegetated dunes in the world (Cape Vidal which we saw in the distance from the cottage and an extensive and diverse wetland systems among other things.

We took a 2 hour boat cruise along the estuary. We saw many beautiful birds and lots of hippos and crocodiles.The scenery was beautiful as well.  Our captain was very informative with excellent eyesight. He knows where the animals like to hang out and would direct our view to see them. He provided interesting facts about what we were seeing but wasn't too chatty that we couldn't enjoy the ride. We also passed a mangrove forest - an interesting place. These trees are adapted to grown in salt water. One adaptation is that they grow aerial roots which take in air. (Click here if you want to know more.)

It was a great boat ride.

Mangrove Forest with aerial roots

On the way home we took a drive through the game park - since it was on the way. We got to see some elephants (a little further away than when we saw them in February) and giraffes as well as rhino, impala, wildebeests, zebras and baboons. About a minute after we spotted the elephant he took a few steps forward and his body was behind a bush. His legs camouflaged with the tree trunks. It is quite hard to believe that something so enormous could be hidden like that. If we had driven by at that instant we never would have seen him. That is what makes the game park so interesting - or frustrating - depending on your view. Since you are dealing with wild animals - "que sera sera" and two people visiting on the same day could very possibly come home with two very different stories. 

Yes - there's an elephant in there

23. Makakatana Getaway Weekend

Having a getaway weekend at Makakatana Bay in the St. Lucia Wetlands Park - a World Heritage Site.

Right now I am sitting on the back verandah. In front of me, grazing on the grass, is a family of warthogs. There are 3 adults and 3 babies. We've been watching them for about half an hour now. Grazing is an interesting venture. The babies go down on their front knees and toddle along munching the grass. The adults tend to keep all 4 legs straight.

At one point 2 faced off - looking each other snout to snout and eye to eye - playing chicken. Who is going to move first? One gave in and started chasing the other.  Just beyond these warthogs, a bush buck (about the size of a deer) has arrived. She is slender and graceful with long legs. She too is busy enjoying a snack of grass. Move back to the foreground. Right now the male warthog is mounting the female. She tries to get away but then decides to stay. Not something that has been on my top 10 must see - but an interesting surprise nonetheless. A few minutes later, she has had enough and toddles away and continues munching on the grass. Oh - there goes a monkey - quilckly darting across the yard and up into a tree.

Marion and Mike are our hosts, and friends of Kevin and Lore. The house has been in Marion's family for over 50 years. On the wall behind me are antlers of many different bush animals. There are only 9 residences here. The area was closed to new building many years ago. 

On the way here, we saw some hippos swimming in a "pan" and many zebras in the savannah on either side of the road and indeed, right in front of us. Mike drove us down to the lake in his baakie (bucky i.e. pick-up truck). The land here is all sandy and we had to drive over dunes. The lake has not recovered from the drought of several years. We could see where the water used to be and walked across the bottom for quite a distance to the new edge of the water, crossing over footprints left behind by hippos, buffalo, bucks and more. The water 

 is very shallow now - maybe a metre at the centre. Kevin is ecstatic that there is a fish eagle (one of his favourite birds) - sitting peacefully on a post. Knowing their ways - he anticipates its take-off and snaps amazing pictures. We are amazed at the view and the expanse. What a peaceful and beautiful place.   

They saw the trench and turned back

 
It's now much later on. We went for a ride around both on the trails and off road. We saw a large herd of wildebeests running across the road. They would stop, turn around and then run back the other way. This was repeated a few times. Mike explained that there was a big trench waiting for electrical cable where they were stopping  and that they were afraid of the hole - so would turn back. On one approach 2 brave souls took a running leap and landed safely on the other side - but no one else would join with them. At one point they gathered around in a group on the non trench side of the road and it looked like they were having a meeting about what to do next. Carrying on, we soon spotted zebra and water buck. The latter have a characteristic white ring on their backside - looking like they've sat down on a freshly painted toilet seat! Next was a water area where adult and baby hippos were lazing in the water. They would emerge, take a big yawn of air and then slide back under the water. We also saw a large number of birds, including one that caught and ate a frog! We were thrilled to see a group of kudo with the male showing off his stately horns. There were quite a few female kudo and some younguns' as well.   As we travelled along we got treated to a lightning show and try as we might - the rain arrived before we got home. I was sitting inside and stayed dry. Mark, Lore and Kevin were riding in the back of the baakie and got quite wet - but their cameras stayed dry - and that's what's important! 

Kudos

Amazing Sky

We spent the evening chatting and eating -- typical cottage visit! We went for an early morning game drive and saw some really interesting birds and the hippos again. We feel so fortunate to be able to enjoy some time in this beautiful and peaceful location. After our good-byes we headed off to St. Lucia for our next adventure - stay tuned.



                                                                                                                               

22. Family Life

It is great to have my family over here. They arrived safe and sound, albeit somewhat tired, on Wednesday (May 4). Since family is on my mind, I thought I'd tell you the little bit I know (with a little help from the web) about family life in the Zulu culture.

Traditionally, the Zulu culture is a patriarchal one. The man would be both the head of the family and the figure of authority. If he can afford it, a man may be married to more than one wife. This shows not only his wealth, but his social standing and virility as well. Women would be responsible for the running of the household, tending the fields, all the food and the raising of the children. The first wife will initiate the acquisition of further wives as they are a help around the house. She, along with the grandmother exerts a powerful influence in the family.

Each wife has her own hut, located in order of standing from the husband's hut, she also has her own fields, herd and cooks only for her immediate family.

In modern times there is a wide range of "typical families" from the traditional to what we would term a familiar western family.

If I was a Zulu child 

my mother would be my mother..... 

my mother's sisters would be my "Little Mothers" 

and my mother's brothers would be my uncles. 

My father's brothers are my "Little Fathers"

and his sisters would be my aunties. 

A grandmothers is called a "granny" or in Zulu, gogo. I haven't heard a special name for grandfather. 

Many people in the 25 -45 age range have died of HIV/AIDS. That leaves many children without their birth mother. In cases like this, children will be cared for by a "little mother"  or perhaps by their gogo. There are also a variety of orphanages in the area.  

 In my little class alone, there are 3 students for sure whose mothers have died and at least 1 without a father. 1 girl has lost her mother and her grandmother. She is cared for by her little mother. This person also has a daughter in our class. The 2 girls refer to each other as sisters. In N. American terminology they would be first cousins.  Many children are also cared for by their granny, even though their mother's are alive. Some of these mother's work in the big city and only return home occasionally.

I'm sure there are other configurations and family arrangements but these are just a few I'm aware of.

Lobola

Traditionally, Lobola is the practice of having a man pay the future father-in-law with cattle, for a wife. If the wife is deficient in any way, (including being unable to have children) the father-in-law is expected to make a replacement available or more likely, refund some or all of the cattle.

The cattle are used to pay the father-in-law for the expense of his daughter's upbringing and the loss of her services.

The lobola is still in practice today. (I'm not sure how extensively....)  A man will go and visit the father of his sweetheart and ask to marry her. The father will name his price. Negotiations will take place often with a 3rd party to help. The more educated etc. the young woman, the more she is worth. These days the payment is just as likely to include a fancy car as cattle. Most young men cannot afford the "asking price." What often happens is that the couple live together, have their family etc.,  all the while they are saving to pay the woman's father. When the couple finally have enough money (and it might take 20 years!!) the father is paid and a wedding can occur. At times, the couple loses much of what they have - because it is needed to pay the father.

It seems to me that what started as a way for the husband to let a family know he was serious and was willing and able to care for their daughter, has morphed into what at times seems like a selfish money grab. But then, it is not part of my culture.....

Dad - if you are reading this..... so sorry --  too late. :-) 

Mother's Day is also being celebrated in S. Africa this Sunday (May 8/11). Happy Mother's Day!!!

21. Meandering through the Country

It has been school holidays for the past week. On Thursday and Friday (Apr. 28-29) Loreen and I went for a little adventure. We went inland (west) towards the foothills of the Drakensberg Mountains to a place called Midlands Meander.  It is an area of farmland, little villages, and places to poke around and "meander through". The value statement of the association states, .... a collective of creative and hospitable people, making a living at a gentler pace. We strive at all times to conduct our business in harmony with our community and the natural environment."  Their mission is "to provide an enriching experience for the tourist by means of a varied array of hospitality, arts and crafts, and outdoor activiites in a beautiful and unique country setting."  So I guess I've been enriched!! We did enjoy driving along, the views were fabulous, and we found some interesting shops and farm shops to stop at along the way. Many of the hospitality places (i.e. B & B and lodges) are pretty high-end and include activities such as golfing, fishing or horseback riding. The area is a destination spot for weddings - away from the big city (probably Jo'berg). Here are some of the places we meandered to.

Our first stop was the Mzansi Zulu Quilt Centre. Mzansi simply means S. Africa in Zulu.  Elizabeth runs both a shop and a mission. Some twenty-five Zulu quilters are involved in the centre. where they are taught techniques. Once they have the skills they are able to work at home to create beautiful quilts, often from donated fabric and material. There is absolutely no charge to them. All the quilters are independent entrepreneurs that have been taught to create wealth where there was none before. The proceeds from the sales go to the person that did the work. The shop also has a long arm quilter for quilting the pieced tops. Elizabeth also makes quilts (fancier ones) as well as running the shop, the mission and teaching classes. If you want to know more you can click here. While I was at the shop there were no quilters there except for 3 women who came up from the city to take a class.They did have TONS of fabrics as well as quilts for sale. The quilts were very reasonably priced - queen sized for about $250 - $300 in many instances. I resisted. ( But I did purchase a bit of fabric. )


After the quilt shop we meandered to a lovely restaurant. We enjoyed our lunch outdoors with this lovely view of Howick Falls.

As we continued our meander we past The Capture Site of Nelson Mandela. They've erected a small monument at the location. 

I thought there would be more to see - but this was all there was
. 
Nearby was a shop called  The Truth Shop. In collaboration with the Apartheid Museum (click to go to their website) they sold merchandise, books, educational material and more, inspired by Nelson Mandela; "things that celebrate South Africa's freedom and the triumph of the human spirit over adversity."
Unfortunately (or maybe fortunately for me) their credit card machine wasn't working - so I was limited to purchasing only a couple of things - after Lore and I pooled our money.


As we continued meandering along we found some different artisan shops to stop at - especially pottery. The view was always spectacular - take a peek. 

It felt very familiar in its appearance. 


Being the Southern Hemisphere - it is Autumn now. After living in a more tropical coastal climate, I was surprised by this row of trees...

As comfortable as the scenery felt, it wasn't long before the reality of where we were came into view! The villages and housing areas were still very "Zulu."  
Here's a little settlement off the main highway. You can see some of the houses that were here. Now because of where the road was situated, some of these houses are taken from the back... but it still gives you an idea of what things looked like - complete with a cow almost blocking the road. 

We spent the night in the "Legendary Nottingham Road Hotel" , affectionately known as Nottie's. Well over a hundred years old,  this hotel was an important stopping point for weary travelers for generations. They've done some renos to update the place while still maintaining the charm and character of a different time. We shared the dining room with about a dozen or more Harley bikers - age 50 +. The only downside was they took over the fireplace for their coffee/dessert and we had been eying the same location. 


On Friday we continued meandering as we headed toward home, stopping at a goat cheese farm (& shop), a micro brewery, a chocolate store, antique and gift stores and some artisan shops. We even managed to catch the Royal Wedding - listening to it live while in a toy store and then going to the gift shop next door to see pics on the shopkeeper's computer. :-)


Except for the major traffic jam (~2 1/2 hours added on to our trip) which rerouted us off the main highway on our way home, it was a perfect little getaway!
It was great to be able to see the different region and the plants, trees etc that are found there. I also got to drive through the edge of some major cities as well as along the coast. 


As always I appreciate your comments and emails that you send my way. It's hard to believe that I'm in the final weeks......